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AMMAN CITADEL

Jordan

Amman Citadel, Jordan

The history of Jabal Al-Qala (literally “Castle Hill”) is long and complex. The buildings on top of the Hill are more than merely a castle, indeed, the fortifications are one of the least impressive things to see.

The very origins of Amman are here. The ancient city of Rabbath-Ammon dating to 7000 years ago stood on this spot. Amman is often considered the oldest continuously occupied city in the world (although others such as Damascus dispute this). The Hill is even mentioned by name in the Bible.

The earlier remains here date from the period when Amman was the Roman city of Philadelphia. The Temple of Hercules dates from the reign of Marcus Aurelius (161-180 AD). Many of the fortifications which cluster around the top of the hill have a similar vintage, being Roman in origin – although most were greatly altered at a later time.

Subsequent to Roman rule disintegrating in the Middle East, the Ummayyad Dynasty built a large complex of buildings on Jabal Al-Qala. The most impressive survival today is the Qasr (the Palace), one section of which is roofed over. Many of the ruins behind it are hard to distinguish from the remains of the Roman settlement and the later Byzantine buildings.

Later fortifications were added, mostly around the base of the hill, during the “Crusader” period, although Amman was never controlled by Crusader powers.

At one end of the complex is the Jordan Archaeological Museum which has, amongst its exhibits, some of the Dead Sea Scrolls. Nearby a great view can be had across the valley to the Roman Amphitheatre on the hillside opposite.

This is a place to wander amongst tumbled ruins, rather than have specific things to explore and tick off a list. There is a tranquillity to be had amidst the darting lizards and the sun-baked ruins that cannot be had elsewhere in Amman.

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2018


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